A Product Compliance Nutritionist’s Expert Guide to Compliant Nutricosmetics Introduction:

As a Product Compliance Nutritionist supporting premium formulations for the UK and European market, we are often asked:

“What’s next after collagen?”

As we step beyond the era of collagen, a new generation of beauty ingredients is emerging, promising to enhance your natural glow from within. These ingredients, many of which are supported by EFSA’s scientific opinions and clinical studies, represent a smarter, cleaner, and more credible approach to beauty formulations.This guide explores six core ingredients we supply, spotlighting their efficacy, synergy, and regulatory alignment.

1.Collagen: The Foundation, Not the Finish Line

Oral collagen supplements, especially hydrolyzed collagen peptides (collagen hydrolysates), are broken down into bioactive peptides and amino acids like glycine, proline, and hydroxyproline. These compounds stimulate fibroblasts, the cells responsible for collagen production, helping to improve the skin’s structure and appearance.

They can increase skin hydration, elasticity, and reduce wrinkle depth, with measurable effects observed in clinical studies.

Typical effective dose: 2.5 to 10 grams per day over 8 to 12 weeks.

While collagen hydrolysates remain the most widely recognized ingredient in skin supplements, the European Food Safety Authority (EFSA) has not approved any direct skin-related health claims for collagen itself.

However, co-formulating collagen with nutrients that have EFSA-authorized claims allows formulators to stay compliant while delivering holistic skin benefits. For example:

Key pairing: Collagen + Vitamin C

Vitamin C contributes to normal collagen formation for the normal function of skin

This is the most common and powerful combination. It enables the product to include collagen for its well- documented supportive role, while making a regulatory-approved claim based on Vitamin C’s action

Other Effective Nutrient Partners for Collagen:

• Zinc : Contributes to the maintenance of normal skin
• Vitamin A : Contributes to the maintenance of normal skin
• Copper : Contributes to normal skin and hair pigmentation, and to the maintenance of normal connective tissues

Each of these can be used alongside collagen to enhance its efficacy and justify compliant health claims on skin function or tissue maintenance.

2.Hyaluronic acid : A true hydration hero

Beneath the surface, a true hydration hero is at play: hyaluronic acid. This powerhouse compound, making up a significant portion of your skin's composition, acts like an internal reservoir, drawing in and locking away precious moisture. It's what keeps your complexion feeling soft, looking smooth, and resisting the everyday tug of time. Unfortunately, with age, our natural supply starts to ebb, leading to a noticeable loss of plumpness and the emergence of fine lines.

Oral Hyaluronic acid has been shown to increase skin moisture and reduce wrinkle depth in clinical trials.

Typical effective dose: ≥120–240 mg/day (subject to national restrictions)

Hyaluronic Acid (HA) currently has no authorized EU health claims. However, we can strategically support skin benefits by pairing HA with nutrients that do have approved claims:

Key pairing: Hyaluronic acid+Vitamin C

• Vitamin C : Contributes to normal collagen formation for the normal function of skin.
• Copper : Contributes to normal skin and hair pigmentation, and to the maintenance of normal fconnective tissues

This approach allows us to compliantly communicate benefits related to skin structure and connective tissue health, aligning with the perceived functions of HA.

3.Marigold extract : Brighten, defend & glow

Tagetes erecta, commonly known as marigold flower, is a potent source of carotenoids , especially lutein and zeaxanthin. These fat‐soluble pigments have long been celebrated for supporting eye health, but growing research shows they are powerful allies for skin health too, offering protection from UV radiation, high- energy visible (HEV) blue light, and oxidative stress.

Once ingested, lutein and zeaxanthin are absorbed and carried to the skin’s epidermis and dermis via lipoproteins. There, they serve as internal light filters, neutralizing harmful wavelengths before they can trigger oxidative damage. They complement this by scavenging free radicals hence mitigating degradation of structural proteins like collagen, elastin, and enzymes critical for skin vitality (like hyaluronidase and elastase) .

Typical effective dose: 10mg Lutein & 0.6mg zeaxanthin (subject to national restrictions)

While EFSA hasn't approved skin-specific claims for lutein or zeaxanthin, pairing them with nutrients that have recognized skin-related claims unlocks compliant messaging without misrepresentation.

Key pairing : Marigold extract + Vitamin E

• Vitamin E : contributes to the protection of cells from oxidative stress
• Selenium : contributes to the protection of cells from oxidative stress

4.Olive leaf extract: From leaf to skin

Olive leaf extract is derived from the leaves of the Olea europaea plant and is standardized for its high content of polyphenols, particularly oleuropein, hydroxytyrosol, and other secoiridoids. These compounds are renowned for their antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties.

Traditionally used for cardiovascular and metabolic health, olive leaf extract is now gaining traction in the nutricosmetic space for its potential to protect the skin from environmental stressors and support healthy aging.

In the context of skin health, in vitro and in vivo studies suggest that olive leaf extract may help:

• Reduce oxidative stress in skin cells by scavenging reactive oxygen species (ROS)
• Support the activity of fibroblasts, contributing to collagen maintenance
• Protect dermal structures from degradation by downregulating matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs)
• Assist in managing inflammation, which is a key contributor to visible skin ageing and sensitivity

A recent study reinforced these mechanisms, showing that olive leaf extract reduced inflammatory mediators and protected against oxidative damage at the cellular level.

While olive leaf extract does not currently have an authorised health claim in the UK/EU for skin or antioxidant support, it can be used in combination with nutrients that do carry relevant authorised claims, helping formulators develop well-supported, compliant product positioning.

Key Pairing : Olive leaf extract + Zinc

• Zinc: contributes to the maintenance of normal skin
• Selenium : contributes to the protection of cells from oxidative stress

5.Omega 3 f atty acids: Structure. Fluidity. Vitality

Omega-3 fatty acids, particularly EPA and DHA, contribute to cell membrane integrity and help regulate inflammation, both of which are relevant to maintaining healthy skin physiology.

Krill oil is a highly bioavailable source of EPA and DHA, naturally rich in phospholipids and astaxanthin. Other effective supplemental sources include fish oil from sardines or anchovies, vegan-friendly algal oil, and ALA-rich flaxseed oil.

Studies have shown that EPA and DHA may help reduce UV-induced skin inflammation, support hydration, and improve elasticity. A 2020 review in the International Journal of Molecular Sciences reported improvements in photoprotection, skin texture, and inflammatory skin conditions following omega-3 intake.

While omega-3s do not carry authorised skin claims in the UK or EU, their role in supporting the skin barrier and inflammatory balance is well supported by scientific literature.

Key pairing: Omega 3 + Vitamin E

• Vitamin E: Contributes to the protection of cells from oxidative stress
• Zinc: Contributes to the protection of cells from oxidative stress

6.Grape seed Extract :Vine powered radiance

Grape seed extract is rich in oligomeric proanthocyanidins (OPCs), powerful antioxidants known to protect skin cells from oxidative stress caused by free radicals, which are a major factor in skin aging.

By neutralizing free radicals, grape seed extract helps to maintain skin’s integrity and promotes healthier, more youthful-looking skin. It also supports microcirculation, which can enhance skin tone and vitality.

Clinical studies have demonstrated its potential to improve skin elasticity, reduce wrinkle formation, and promote hydration.

Typical effective dose: 100 to 300 mg per day over 8 to 12 weeks.

Although EFSA has not authorized direct skin health claims specifically for grape seed extract, it can be combined with ingredients that have recognized benefits to support overall skin health.

Key pairing: Grape Seed Extract + Vitamin C

Vitamin C contributes to normal collagen formation for the normal function of skin — a perfect complement that allows brands to deliver a compliant, synergistic skin health message.

Other effective nutrient partners for grape seed extract include:

• Vitamin E: Contributes to the protection of cells from oxidative stress
• Zinc: Contributes to the protection of cells from oxidative stress

Other hero beauty from within ingredients we offer:

• L-Glutathione
• Beta Carotene (blakeslea trispora)
• Pine bark extract >95% PCs (pinus pinaster)
• Vitis vinifera leaf extract 4:1
• Quercetin dihydrate
• Coconut water powder [ CocoMineral®]
• Coll-egan® (unflavoured) 
• Haskapa berry powder

In addition to the featured ingredients, we offer a comprehensive portfolio of high-quality, regulatory-aligned actives for skin, hair, and overall wellbeing , including branded ingredients, botanicals, vitamins, minerals, and more.

Get in touch with our team today to explore how Cambridge Commodities can support your next formulation with expertly sourced, science-backed ingredients that meet the highest standards of efficacy and compliance.

From Dose to Glow: Ingredients That Deliver (Summary)

Ingredient	Dose	Benefits	Pairings
Collagen peptides	2.5–10 g	Elasticity, hydration, wrinkle reduction	Vit C, Zinc, Vit A, Copper
Hyaluronic Acid	≥120–240 mg	Hydration, wrinkle reduction	Vit C, Copper
Marigold extract	10 mg Lutein + 0.6 mg Zeaxanthin	Light protection, antioxidant, collagen support	Vit E, Selenium
Olive leaf extract	Polyphenol-standardised	Anti-inflammatory, collagen & dermal support	Zinc, Selenium
Omega-3s (EPA/DHA)	250–1000 mg EPA/DHA	Inflammation, hydration, elasticity	Vit E, Zinc
Grape seed extract	100–300 mg	Antioxidant, hydration, elasticity	Vit C, Vit E, Zinc

 

Strategic Stacking: Nutritional Inputs by Skin Function

 

 

 

 

Authors notes:

As the nutricosmetic sector evolves beyond collagen, today's savvy consumers and formulators are demanding more than marketing claims, they want credible science, proven efficacy, and regulatory clarity. At Cambridge Commodities, we’re proud to lead the way in supplying next-generation beauty-from-within ingredients that meet the highest standards of quality, safety, and compliance.

With over two decades of sourcing expertise and a deep understanding of EU and UK regulations, we partner with you to create standout formulations backed by robust data and EFSA-authorised claims. Whether you're innovating a new beauty blend or enhancing an existing product, our technical knowledge, premium ingredient portfolio, and collaborative support ensure you’re always one step ahead in the marketplace.

Let's build the future of skin health, together.

Aalia Abdulrehman- Product Compliance Nutritionist

Sources:

1. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/34632820/
2. https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC5776915/
3. https://www.simply supplements.co.uk/healthylife/health-and-beauty /the-benefits-of-grape-seed-extract-for-your-skin?srsltid=AfmBOoq-T12qVt1zDazsBlj6lVFghOpTi3oEt7Nco074gvVZ6nrOWYh6
4. Beneficial long-term effects of combined oral/topical antioxidant treatment with the carotenoids lutein and zeaxanthin on human skin: a double-blind, placebo-controlled study - PubMed
5. Oral administration of hyaluronic acid to improve skin conditions via a randomized double-blind clinical test - PubMe
6. Effects of grape juice consumption on muscle fatigue and oxidative stress in judo athletes: a randomized clinical trial - PubMed